Tuesday, October 9, 2007

The San Cristobal Update (Lisa)

Well, hello! We're still here! Here's a small update on what we've been doing:

Anthony did a boat tour of Sumidero Canyon, which is outside San Cristobal. I had planned to go too, but instead I stayed behind and dealt with a second round of the dreaded beasties. (They are really gone now, and I promise I´m fine, Mom.) Anyway, he says it was pretty gorgeous.

Yesterday we went through the Maya Medicine Museum, which was pretty interesting. The indigenous people in these mountains still do a lot of plant healing, and still do some wacky healing techniques and ceremonies. For instance: they have a curandero (healer) do a ceremony and chant while they burn certain quantities of candles, and certain colors. They incorporate Coke into the ceremony, either by sprinkling it on themselves, or drinking it and burping (the burping expels bad spirits). They have certain healers who are "pulse readers", they feel your pulse and tell you what's wrong and how to heal it (how many candles and what color?). Sometimes they wave a chicken or egg over the patient a few times, which supposedly really helps. (Why haven't I tried that??)

We were lucky enough to watch two Maya women who came to the curandero at the museum, they did the candles and the soda (sipping, no sprinkling), and then the pulse reading. They pay a small fee to the curandero for this service. (As Anthony so keenly observed, "Heck, I can get a pulse reading at Wal-Mart for FREE!") Anyway, it was interesting to watch. They have a video on childbirth rituals, and displays with mannekins which are creepy, but interesting. (The guy in the photo is making this stuff of ground wild tobacco and limestone, which the Maya swirl around in their mouth and swallow slowly - for good luck and good health.) The museum also has a "pharmacy" on the grounds, where you can find a plant-based potion for whatever ails ya.....

The walk back from the museum took us through the market, which was, of course, interesting and totally chaotic. We did stop briefly and admire the CDs and DVDs for sale - all bootleg homemade copies. Turns out you can get a copy of "Big Wet Brazilian Asses" for a mere 10 pesos (about a buck). We passed. (Sorry to disappoint those of you who might have been hoping for a souvenir.)

Today we spent some time just soaking up some more of the city. It's really pretty, and there is a lot to see just wandering around. I'm rather sad to have missed some time here because of being sick! Here´s a shot of the area around the park, showing all the Maya ladies and children surrounding a poor tourist. (They are tough, you have to say no about ten times before they give in and leave you in peace. What's sad is all the children selling - at all hours of the night and day.)
We spent some time in the park this morning, there's a cafe right in the middle where we could get out of the cool drizzle and have coffee upstairs and watch the goings-on in the park. (Of course the Maya children/salesgirls found us up there. Anthony bought a bracelet and they were happy.) It´s nice and cool here (unlike Wilmington right now, from what I see!), it's in the low 70's in the day, and low to mid 60's at night. The first rain we've had in San Cristobal was today, so we're not complaining.
We visited a cool museum called Na Balom this afternoon, with all kinds of photos and artifacts from the Lacandon Indians, collected by a European couple in the 50's. Pretty impressive stuff. (I tried to find a Flickr photo, but no luck.)
Anyway, we're off tomorrow, headed for the lowlands and the Mayan ruins of Palenque. And the heat and mosquitos, I´m sure. The fun part is that we get to stop at two waterfall areas and spend some time along the way - that should be pretty nice!
More later, from the lowlands.....


No comments: